DIY oil change on a 993


Originally created by Robin Sun
Modified by Jeffrey W. Chan

This DIY project in the skill level of 1-10 (10 being the hardest) it is a 6.  To increase the download time I will only post minimal numbers of pictures and the rest can still be access by click on the underlined links on the word.

Some of the most important tools and items needed for this DIY is a oil filter socket, and over sized drain pan.

There are two oil filters in the 993 engine, Porsche added an additional oil filter on the 993 engine to provide extra filtration of the oil for the protection of the hydraulic lifters.


Parts you will need to replace on this DIY:
About 11 quarts of Mobile 1 oil, (Or the oil of your choice)
900 123 118 30 Seal washer for oil tank drain plug, 22x27mm 
900 123 118 30 Seal washer for engine drain plug, 22x27mm (thru '95) 
900 123 095 30 Seal washer for engine drain plug, 21x26mm ('96 on)
900 123 106 30 Seal washer for turbo drain plug, (TT only), 2 required
999 701 269 40 O-ring for oil tank drain plug, 11X2.5 mm 
993 107 203 03 Engine oil filter ( small filter )
993 207 201 02 Oil tank oil filter ( large filter )

Tools needed for this DIY:


Large flat-head screwdriver
Ratchet
Various rachet extensions
15 mm 6 point socket (can damage drain plugs with 12 point)
15 mm box end wrench (6 point preferable, if you can find one)
13 mm socket
10 mm socket
Medium Phillips screwdriver
Oil filter wrench - Recommended to get Porsche Part 00037213920.40, but others may work also.
Hydraulic floor jack ( not pictured )
4 Jack stands ( not pictured )
Torque wrench ( not pictured )
Large oil pan ( not pictured )
Long funnel ( not pictured )


Time Required:

This DIY will take take you several hours if it is your first time, but can be completed in under an hour if you have done it before. During this DIY I broke a new personal record in changing the oil, 1 hours including the time spent to take these pictures.


  1. Jack up the car onto 4 jack stands
    Please refer to "How to jack your car up" section for details. Remove the right rear wheel.

  2. Loosen rocker panel
    Remove the 4 philips screws that holds the plastic panel on the bottom right side of the car. Unbolt the 10 mm plastic bolts that holds the entire panel on the bottom right side of the car. Pull the cover off around the jack stand position area, and pull down the side panel, you will not need to remove the panel completely to access the oil tank drain plug and oil tank filter.

  3. Loosen rear fender liner
    Remove the 10 mm plastic bolt in the rear wheel well area. Pull the wheel well panel back to gain access to the oil tank filter.

  4. Drain the oil tank and replace filter
    Place the oil pan underneath the oil tank drain plug You will have less chance of spilling if you prop up the drain pan.


    Undo the drain tank plug using the 15 MM 6 point rachet.

    Remove the oil tank filter through the rear wheel well panel opening that has been pulled back.

    After you have drained the oil from the oil tank, replace the washer and o-ring on the oil tank drain plug and tighten to 40 ft lb of torque

    When installing the new filter ( long one ), it is a good practice to check if the rubber seal hasn't fallen off the old oil filter and is stuck on the oil tank before you installing the new filter.

    This used to happen a lot back in the old days, where the new filter is installed with the old oil rubber seal still stuck on the oil tank, we call it "Double gasket". Leaking will occur when that happens.

    When installing the new filter make sure you don't over tighten. Remember to hand tighten only.

  5. Remove engine undertray and transmission undertray
    Both the engine undertray and transmission undertray use Dzus style fasteners; ¼ turn unlocks and releases the screws.

    For the engine undertray, there are 5 fasteners that hold it up.

    For the transmission undertray, loosen the Dzus fasteners, and then slide the panel out toward the rear of the car.

  6. Drain crankcase oil
    Place the oil pan under the engine drain plug, and unbolt the drain plug to drain the oil from the crank case. After the oil has drained, replace the washer and retighten the drain plug back at 40 ft lb of torque.

    You do not need to remove the left side ventiliation hose. The oil will still drain properly with it in place.

    The drain plug is magnetized and you will see a small amount of metal shavings on the plug. This is normal and should not be cause for alarm. However, if you see a large amount of shavings, you should consult your mechanic.

  7. Remove the right side ventilation hose
    Remove the right side ventilation rubber hose and "r" shaped ventilation door. There are a total of three straps you will need to loosen.

  8. Remove the oil return line
    In order to remove the engine oil filter ( small one ) you will need to move the oil return line out a way. (A trick told by a Porsche mechanic) It is possible to remove the oil filter without moving this tube, but it is easier this way.

    This picture shows how the oil return line blocks the oil filter from dropping straight down.

    There is only one bolt that holds the oil return line on.

    In order to remove the oil return line out from the engine case you will need to use a flat screw driver slowly and carefully pry out the oil return line from the engine block once the bolt is removed.

    Place the oil pan underneath this line before it is pull out of the engine case, oil will come purring out of this line once it is pulled out.

    This picture shows the oil return line removed. You can also see the oil filter wrench already on the engine oil filter.

  9. Replace the engine oil filter
    The small oil filter is located under the right side of the car, behind the rear axle. Remove the small filter and replace it with a new one. Remember to apply a small amount of oil to the oil filter seal, make sure that you haven't "Double Gasket" 'ed, and to hand tighten only.

  10. Reinstall the oil return line
    When reinstalling the oil return line, you may have problems with getting the bolt hole to match up properly. The oil return line is metal, however, if you follow it up about 8 inches, there is a rubber connector section. You can use massage this rubber section to get the bolt hole to line up with the crankcase. In this picture, I have shaded the rubber connector portion in red

    Note: The service manuals recommend changing the o rings for the oil return pipe when ever you take out the oil return pipe. However, I am unclear about the part numbers. The parts catalog show 2 possible part numbers: 999.707.316.40 and 999.707.309.40.

  11. Reinstall the rubber ventiliation hose
    Reinstall the ventiliation door by tightening the 3 hose clamps.

  12. Drain turbo resevoirs ( for 993 TT's only )
    Each turbo contains a small oil resevoir. The amount of oil should be the same in each oil resevoir. If they are not, then that indicates a turbo sealing ring failure and you should probably consult your mechanic.

    Use two small plastic cups (ie, 12 oz each) to collect the oil on each side and verify that they contain the same amount of oil. Be sure to replace the washer when reinstalling the drain plugs.

  13. Add oil
    Pour 9 quarts of oil in. The pouring process gets back up once you get about 8 quarts in the oil tank, you will need to slow down the pouring process or back up will occur.

    Start the engine check the oil level and pour more if needed. Use the dipstick to check the oil level. The dipstick only registers the last 1.5 quarts of oil, so don't be alarmed if you don't see anything on the dipstick before 9 quarts.

    I usually end up pouring 10.5 quarts of Mobil 1.

    If you followed the above procedure exactly you will need to put in 10.5 quarts of oil. This should save you sometime to figure out how many quarts of oil to put in. With 10.5 quarts the needle for oil tank level gauge on the dash will point at 3:00 colock position once the car is fully warmed up and oil thermostat open.

    Using a funnel will help you avoid spilling in the engine compartment. Also, if you have a turbo, you can remove the intercooler shroud to get better access to the oil filler pipe.

  14. Congratulations
    You've completed your DIY oil change. Go out for a drive and enjoy your p-car for another 5000 miles.

Notes:
Contributed from Jeffrey W. Chan

You do not have to loosen the rocker panel to access the oil tank drain plug. There is a small access panel on the bottom of the rocker panel, close to the rear wheel, fastened by two phillips screws, which allows you to access the oil tank drain plug properly.


Updates:
December, 2001

There were some talks recently about the Mobil 1 Euro grade 0w40 oil. So I was curious and purchased 12 quarts of the stuff from my local Porsche dealer (the only place that seems to carry them at this time) At a whopping rate of $6.26/quart. Just to fill you in on the complete story, I usually change to a lighter weight Mobil 1 oil (Green label bottle) right before the winter months, and change back to the 15w50 oil right before Summer. I thought this would be a good opportunity for me to try out the 0w40 weight oil to see how it performs.

Contributed from Jeffrey W. Chan 2/21/02

You can purchase Mobil 1 0w40 online at Park Place Motors for $5.85/qt, no sales tax ( at least in California ), and $3.50 flat rate shipping.


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