993 Faq Frequently Asked Questions about the Porsche 1994-1997 993

11/25/2012

TRANSMISSION FLUID DIY

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY),Transmission — Jeff 993TT @ 12:47 am

Changing my transmission oil was pretty easy and my shifting action is much smoother.. It also gives me more peace of mind. There aren’t any filters in the trans! Really the hardest part was jacking up the car onto 4 jack stands.
I used 4 quarts of Amsoil 75W90 syntethic oil. Interestingly, it was pretty difficult to find Mobil 1 gear oil, which was my first choice. I found mostly Amsoil and Redline in shops. This oil wins the more colorful prize. It was a light blue color.

The manufacturer recommends doing this change at 30K, but at 19K miles, my trans oil was pretty dark and murky. There were a few shavings on the magnetic plug, which I cleaned off. ( See pic below. )

Thanks to Robin for a wonderful DIY. It helped me tremendously. Here are a few tips for the first time DIY’er that would be helpful.

a) You may need to put blocks under the rear wheels while jacking up the front of the car. With the front already on jack stands, the jack has less clearance to get under the tail of the car. My car isn’t lowered, but I needed the cinder blocks in the picture to get the jack under there. I used the rear engine jacking point without problem. The hockey puck trick worked great!

b) Definately use a 10 MM allen key socket. I had to purchase a 3/8″ to 1/2″ drive adapter to use a bigger ratchet handle. Those bolts are on pretty tight.

c) Robin’s DIY recommends that you remove the filler plug first, which is a good idea. However, it makes more sense to just make sure that you can loosen both the filler and drain plugs. You don’t have to remove them right there, otherwise, trans oil will start to flow out of the filler.

d) If you wait about 1/2 an hour for all the old transmission fluid to drain out, it will take all 4 quarts of the new fluid without spilling out of the filler tube. Just keeps things a bit cleaner. I liked the “oil bong” technique. It worked great. I used 7/8″ tubing and shaved down the end a bit. I then screwed it into the filler plug. If I were to do it again, I would have purchased an extra quart of AMsOIL to run through the transmission case to flush out any extra impurities.

e) Also, you will have to take off the driver rear wheel. I ended up taking off both rear wheels, becuase I couldn’t tell in Robin’s picture which one to do.

Here is a link to the gallery:

01/30/2005

Oil Change on a Turbo

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY),Turbo — Jeff 993TT @ 7:50 pm

In addition to Robin’s information for an oil change on a NA (normally aspirated ) 993, I’ve created some additional specific for Turbo cars.

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12/15/2002

Upgrading to one touch electric windows

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY),Interior,Tips and Tricks — Jeff 993TT @ 6:17 pm

The window operation on the 993 does not allow for one touch up/down operation. The user needs to hold the switch up/down until the window is all the way up or down.

There is kit that can be purchased to upgrade the operation of the windows.

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Oil cooler fan switch

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY),Engine,Modifications — Jeff 993TT @ 6:09 pm

You can override the thermostat which controls the high speed oil cooler fan. The fan operates in two modes, low speed and high speed. By shorting a wire on the climate control unit ( CCU ), you can force the high speed operation.

This has been especially useful when you are stuck in a long line of traffic or when you are coming off the track into the paddock area. It’s really amazing how fast it brings the temps back down. More information about installing an oil cooler fan switch can be found here: Installation of a manual oil cooler fan switch

Before you install the switch, you will want to verify that your oil cooler thermostat is working correctly. You can find directions here: 964/993 Oil Cooler Fan Operation & Troubleshooting

If you are concerned about premature fan failure, the fan costs about $100 to replace. I would not recommend that you run all the time in the high speed mode, but, as mentioned above, during traffic and during cool down periods in the paddock, it is invaluable. Oil is the lifeblood of your engine, be sure to keep it cool!

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Installing a trailer hitch

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY),Exterior — Jeff 993TT @ 5:53 pm

There are several options for attaching a trailer hitch to your 993.

a) Evolution Motorsports has one specifically designed for the 993.
b) Go to www.hitch-web.com and lookup a hitch for your car. A company calle Daalen makes one. This is the one I have.
c) Have a race/machine shop custom fabricate a hitch for you.

If you get the one from Daleen, it might scratch up the rear bumper. A solution is to glue a thin sheet of urathane behind the hitch so the metal does touch the bumper. An alternative would be to add some thick spacers to move the hitch away from the body.

As far as the trailer, you can buy one from Northen Tool

For more information on hooking up the trailer lights, refer to these links: E.J.’s Trailer Wiring and
Rennlist Discussion Forums: Chris in Detroit – Trailer Lights Question…

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Hardwiring a radar detector

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY) — admin @ 5:50 pm

If you are installing a Valentine One radar detector, the DIY can be found here on Robin Sun’s website.

How to remove the front seats

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY),Interior,Tips and Tricks — Jeff 993TT @ 5:50 pm

The front seats are held in by 6 hex bolts. Two are toward the front of the seat track and 4 are on the rear. Use a good quality hex rachet set and make sure that the hex head is seated in properly before applying torque.

Be sure that you raise the seat to the highest position to get more clearance to the bolt heads.

The bolt heads are very soft. Here is the part number for when you strip the bolts and need to order new ones: 900.119.030.02. Cost is about $2.00 per bolt. It is recommended that you only use factory parts to replace these bolts becuase of sheer strength requirements.

If you happen to strip these bolts, here are some suggestions on how to remove the bolt: Rennlist Discussion Forums: Those *&$#@ Seat Rail Hex Bolts-Advice?

Be sure to remove any electrical connectors from the bottom of the seat before trying to heave the seat out of the car. As a precaution, you may want to pull the fuse for the seat electrics, or use a plastic putty knife when trying to pry the connectors out. I used a screwdriver and shorted the seat electrics fuse inadvertently.

How to change out the ECU

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY),Electrical System,Engine — Jeff 993TT @ 5:42 pm

The ECU in the 993 is under the driver’s seat.

To remove the driver’s seat, follow these instructions: How to remove the front seats

After you have the seat removed, you will see a metal cover over the ECU. These bolts are “blind” bolts. That means that these bolts don’t have a bolt head you can use a tool to unscrew them. Use a dremel tool to square off the bolts and then remove them using pliers.

After you have removed these blind bolts, replace them with regular bolts that you can use a rachet set on.

After you remove the metal cover, you will see the ECU and can remove it.

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Converting switchblade to regular key fob

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY) — admin @ 4:28 pm

For many people, the switchblade key/remote combination fob is cumbersome, so many have converted there’s to a standard key and separate remote fob. For pictures and a DIY on how to do this click here. Info from Robin Sun’s website again.

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Links to DIY articles

Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY) — Jeff 993TT @ 9:43 am

The undisputed best library of 993 DIY articles is at www.p-car.com, created and maintained by Robin Sun. If there’s a task not covered here, consider writing one and adding it to the collection.

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