993 Faq Frequently Asked Questions about the Porsche 1994-1997 993

03/13/2003

How to adjust your emergency brakes

Filed under: Brakes — admin @ 7:53 pm

The following is a general procedure for adjusting the emergency brake. First, the “star adjuster” is accessed through the access hole in the drum/emergency brake portion of the rear disc. Turn the disc and shine a light into the access hole; this hole should eventually align up with what looks like a coarse-toothed pinion gear. This “gear” is the star adjuster. If you have ever adjusted drum brakes on an old antique car this procedure should be fairly familiar.

– Release parking brake
– Adjust star adjuster till can’t turn rotor anymore
– Adjust star adjuster till wheel is free
– Pull up handbrake by two notches
– Adjust star adjuster till wheel can barely be rotated
– Release parking brake and check for free wheel rotation

Now, stop the car on a hill and pull up on the emergency brake handle. Car should be firmly held by time you’ve pulled up 4 notches on the handle.

01/27/2003

How to bed in brake pads

Filed under: Brakes — Jeff 993TT @ 8:44 pm

After completing instillation make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10mph. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle.
During the 60-5-10mph series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approx. 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10mph, it is not necessary to watch the speedomoter, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for whil breaking in the system.

On the 8th to 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well.

Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is slight fading of the brakes which will stabilize, but not completely go away.

If racing or higher performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10mph and if a full race pad, four stops from 100 to 5-10 mph.

After the final stop, drive as much as possibe without using the brakes to cool the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using again.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP WHEN THE SYSTEM IS HOT AND LEAVE YOUR FOOT ON THE PEDAL. PAD MATERIAL WILL IMMEDIATELY TRANSFER TO THE ROTOR CAUSING A VIBRATION.

after the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity. A second or third heat cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “come in”

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12/15/2002

Why do new brade pads need to be “bedded”?

Filed under: Brakes — Jeff 993TT @ 5:55 pm

For optimal use of any given brake system, the pads and rotor have to be compatible with each other. The bed-in procedure establishes that compatibility between the pad and rotor. This is achieved by a combination of rubbing speed, temperature, line pressure, and Inertia. Bed-in is also influenced by pad and rotor material chemistries. It is always recommended that only compatible pads and rotors be used in any given application.

Bedding in advantages:
1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor.

2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface. This will eliminate

Brake squeel and brake dust

Filed under: Brakes — Jeff 993TT @ 5:36 pm

Brake dust is caused by the friction between the rotors and the pads. A good thing, really, becuase if there was no friction, you’d have no brakes! That being said, there is no brake pad that exists which provides good stopping performance and no brake dust. It’s a comprimise.

As far as brake squeal, there are some things to reduce sqeal:

1) Use your garden hose with a spray nozzle. Hole the nozzle between the wheel spokes and spray out all the brake dust. Roll your car a few inches to get the area under the caliber. Drive for a while, and use the brakes enough to generate some heat to dry everything out.

2) make certain you’ve got OEM Textar Pads (others may not squeal, either, but I can’t speak to those).

3) Don’t use the stupid little (anti-squeal) pucks. They’re expensive and make everything more difficult to work with.

If your pads still squeal after doing the above, then,

4) buy some “anti-squeal” spray from your local autoparts store and follow the directions to apply them to the back of the pads.

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How to paint the brake calipers

Filed under: Brakes — admin @ 5:36 pm

Full details of how to paint your brake calipers can be found in the DIY section of Robins excellent P-car.com site.The following link will take you there.

http://p-car.com/caliper/

How to bleed the brakes

Filed under: Brakes,Tips and Tricks — Jeff 993TT @ 5:28 pm

Consensus is that a pressure bleeder is a) the best way to achieve a good bleed, b) makes the job as fast and easy as possible, and c) pays for itself the first time you do the job yourself. Motive Products’ bleeder is $45 and available online Motive Products.

You can find a DIY here: http://www.p-car.com/diy/flush.html

Recommended brake pads

Filed under: Brakes — Jeff 993TT @ 9:39 am

Everybody wants brake pads which have no noise and have excellent stopping performance. Dream on.

The proper brake pads depend on your application.

If you are driving mostly street with a few track/autoX events thrown in there and there and are not an overy agressive braker, then stay with the OEM pads. They give a good balance of stopping power, low noise and low cost. These pads are about $150-200 per set of 4.

If you are serious into track, then use the Pagid Orange pads. These will give you much better stopping performance at the track. However, they do not work so well then they are cold and squeel a mile a way. Interesting, there have been people who have reported no squealing, but that is more the exception than the norm. These pads are much more expensive, approx $500 per set of 4.

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