993 Faq Frequently Asked Questions about the Porsche 1994-1997 993



Filed under: Exterior — admin @ 10:06 pm

This is addressed towards those of you who have silver-painted alloy wheels, as used on the 924/944/928 and on many of the 964/993 series Porsches. It is NOT for those of you with the Fuchs forged alloy wheels, chrome plated wheels, or polished or satin aluminum (either clear coated or not).

I am sure that at one time or other you have suffered a scratch in the silver painted surface. Maybe the tire installer wasn’t too careful, or you scratched them taking them on or off your wheel carrier transporting them to and from the track, or you scraped a curb at one time. In any case, you might try this method for touching up the scratched area.

Sand the damaged area first with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Sand ONLY the area damaged; do not even lightly touch the outlying undamaged area or you will expand the area you have to touch up. Sand until you have an even contour. Then progress to finer and finer grits; first 220 or 320 grit and finally finishing with 500 grit. These painted wheels are generally cast aluminum, and so should sand very easily.

An excellent paint match is one of the following:
Plasti-Kote no. 3230
Dupli-Color no. 77-01579

Both of these are the little brush-on touch up vials. The color is actually a Toyota very fine silver used from about ’89 to ’94 (the Dupli-Color vial I got calls it Toyota Platinum Silver). You can now touch up the sanded area with the paint. You should get a very close match to the factory original paint, and from several feet away the damage should just about disappear. I used this with success on both the OE and the aftermarket (track) wheels on my 993.

(Note: my thanks to Bob Petruska on the Audi A4 list for this helpful hint)

993 Manual Transmission Oil Change

Filed under: Maintenance — admin @ 10:00 pm

For info, the G50 transmission model is the manual transmission type installed in the 911 since 1987. The G64 is the AWD version of the G50 installed in the C4. Now, I recently did a transmission oil change on my 993, and figured I’d let you folks know what I did. I tend to think that this should be applicable for all 911 G50/G64 model manual transmissions, but I am not guaranteeing this.

Items you will need:
– 10 mm Allen-headed socket (3/8″ drive might be best)
– 2 22mm X 27 mm crush washers. These are generally aluminum; Porsche no. is 900 123 011 30
– Long 3/8 drive ratchet, or a 1/2 drive ratchet with a 3/8″ X 1/2″ adapter
– Torque wrench that can accurately go to about 30 ft-lbs (1/2″ drive might be too large)
– 4 quarts of transmission oil. Check your owner’s manual, but mine specified 75W90 GL5 spec. This is readily available in Mobil 1
– Good floor jack and jack stand
– Catch basin to catch oil
– About 5 feet of 3/4″ or 7/8″ clear vinyl tubing

Now, jack up the car at the left rear as high as needed to get under the car comfortably, and secure on a jack stand. On 964 and 993, remove the engine and transmission undercovers. You should be able to see the transmission drain and filler plugs easily; the drain plug is at the bottom under the differential, and the filler is on the left side of the transmission forward of the driveshaft.

The drain and filler plugs are nice high-quality steel fittings. ALWAYS start with unscrewing the filler plug; this way, if it won’t come out you just drop the car and bring it into someone who does this for a living (if you drain the oil first THEN find you can’t remove the filler plug, you’re in big trouble). In my case, the plugs unbolted easily.

With the filer plug unscrewed, you can position your catch tank and remove the drain plug. With the car at an angle, you might not get out all the old oil; I found if I lowered the car back to level, I was able to drain the transmission better. There is a magnet at the bottom of the plug; you will invariably find it loaded with steel shavings. Clean off the plug, remove the old crush washer, and replace with a new one. Reinstall the plug and torque to 22 ft-lbs (30 N-m). This is not much, so be careful. Also clean up the filler plug, install a new crush washer, and place it aside.

You can now fill the tranny with fresh fluid. Easy way I found to do this was to route the tubing through the left rear wheel housing from right above the top of the tire, down around the suspension, then stick the tubing end into the filler port. Make sure that the lowest part of the tubing is at the transmission filler hole. You can now start adding oil via the other tubing end in the wheel well. I found I could speed up the oil addition by cutting the tip off the oil cannister and squeezing it.

Check your owner’s manual to see how much oil to add. For info, on the 993 the G50 takes 3.6 liters and the G64 takes 3.8 liters (a quart is 0.946 liters, for info). When done, pull out the tubing, install and torque the filler plug (22 ft-lbs), then lower the car and congratulate yourself.



Filed under: Maintenance — admin @ 9:51 pm

I tend to be somewhat of a “wrench twirler’, being willing to do work on my cars (even sometimes to their detriment). Reasons for this are somewhat financial (I don’t charge myself labor), somewhat timing (trying to get time to drop the car off & arrange to pick it up at a dealer or shop is a major nuisance, especially in these days of possibly being canned due to “downsizing”), but mostly – I enjoy doing it! So, when someone told me that changing oil and filters on a 993 was a major job, I just figured maybe taking 1 hour rather than 1/2 hour like on my old Carrera. Well, I have since found out that this job can consume the better part of a Saturday. Worse, unless you’re careful, you can also “paint” your garage floor with about 9 quarts of old, dirty oil!.

For those of you who intend to tackle this job yourself, value from my experience. For those of you who are sane and leave Porsche maintenance to the pros, hope you can get a good laugh from all of this.

Items needed:
900 123 118 30 Seal washer for oil tank drain plug, 22x27mm
900 123 118 30 Seal washer for engine drain plug, 22x27mm (thru ’95)
900 123 095 30 Seal washer for engine drain plug, 21x26mm (’96 on)
999 701 269 40 O’ring for oil tank drain plug, 11X2.5 mm
993 107 203 02 Engine oil filter
993 207 201 01 Oil tank oil filter

15mm 6-point socket (can damage drain plugs with 12-point)
15 mm box end wrench (6-point preferable, if you can find one)
Large flat-head screwdriver
Medium Phillips screwdriver
Oil filter wrench (type that clamps on end of filter -bring new filter to store & match)
Hydraulic jack
Jack stand
Torque wrench

OK, let’s get started!

1) Jack up right rear of car, remove wheel. Put jack stand under car to hold weight.
2) Unscrew screws holding rear fender liner in place, remove liner.
3) Unscrew screws holing entire rocker panel cover in place up to front fender, swing cover down out of way.
4) Unscrew engine cover (5 screws) and transmission cover (6 screws, as I remember) and remove. These are held in place with Dzus style fasteners; 1/4 turn unlocks and releases the screws.
5) Loosen slightly the oil tank drain plug (WARNING! IT IS ALUMINUM, AND APPEARS VERY EASY TO STRIP THE HEX HEAD!)
6) Put wheel back on, lower car
7) Remove oil tank drain plug, drain oil. Renew O’ring on drain plug, put new sealing washer on plug,tighten to 40 ft-lbs. For info, had to drop car at this point because the oil tank drain is right over the jack location.
8) Jack up car, remove wheel. Renew oil tank oil filter.
9) Remove the right-side heater flapper valve (bottom of engine). Remove rubber heater duct from flapper valve to heater valve (above and in front of axle).
10) Unscrew the engine drain plug (left side of engine half, by left heater flapper valve). This will apparently only take a box-end wrench; there is insufficient room for a socket. If the plug won’t move, try rapping the wrench with a hammer.
11) Place new seal washer on drain plug, tighten to 40 ft-lbs.
12) Use filter wrench and long extension to unscrew the engine filter. This is in a very tight area; might have to unbolt a drain tube adjacent to the filter (I haven’t). Replace filter.
13) Reinstall the rocker panel cover, wheelwell liner, and transmission cover.
14) Add six quarts of oil.
15) Start engine, let idle, and slowly add last 3 quarts. Go for a drive to warm up engine, then top-up as necessary.

A few last items:
a) When replacing the drain plugs, Porsche makes no mention of using an anti-seize compound. I use one out of habit.
b) When replacing filters, make sure to lube the rubber oil seal with engine oil, then screw on firmly HAND TIGHT ONLY. I’ve got a good horor story of trying to remove a filter tightened in place with a wrench. This hand-tight installation might be hard to do on the engine filter; recommend using filter wrench with extension, hold HEAD of ratchet on extension end and tighten moderately. Hopefully, you can remove the filter wrench later.
c) Notice I didn’t reinstall the engine panel. Bruce Anderson has made the recommndation to leave this panel off the 993 and 964 C2/C4; this panel causes excessive heat retention and premature valve guide wear.

Fun, wasn’t it? And all it took was 4 hours.


How to adjust your emergency brakes

Filed under: Brakes — admin @ 7:53 pm

The following is a general procedure for adjusting the emergency brake. First, the “star adjuster” is accessed through the access hole in the drum/emergency brake portion of the rear disc. Turn the disc and shine a light into the access hole; this hole should eventually align up with what looks like a coarse-toothed pinion gear. This “gear” is the star adjuster. If you have ever adjusted drum brakes on an old antique car this procedure should be fairly familiar.

– Release parking brake
– Adjust star adjuster till can’t turn rotor anymore
– Adjust star adjuster till wheel is free
– Pull up handbrake by two notches
– Adjust star adjuster till wheel can barely be rotated
– Release parking brake and check for free wheel rotation

Now, stop the car on a hill and pull up on the emergency brake handle. Car should be firmly held by time you’ve pulled up 4 notches on the handle.

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